Learn to make traditional Suzhou-style savory mooncakes at home! The crispy, flaky pastry and juicy, savory meat filling are so satisfying. Once you taste that golden crunch, you’ll want to make them again and again.
Mooncakes Galore – And You Can Make Them Too!
A few years ago, I was like many people—mooncakes only came from the store. I never once thought I could actually make them at home.
But one autumn, I gave it a shot. To my surprise, they turned out even better than expected—and easier than steamed buns like Vegan Bao (which always felt more complicated to me). No proofing. No guesswork.
Once I started making mooncakes, I just couldn’t stop. Every year as the Mid-Autumn Festival approaches, I find myself whipping up batch after batch—it’s become a tradition I truly cherish. Over time, I’ve shared a variety of mooncake recipes, including:
Some are for me to enjoy with a hot cup of tea, and others are carefully wrapped and shared with the people I love. It’s become a little tradition of mine, and it brings me so much joy.
And of all the mooncakes I’ve made, this Suzhou-style savory one has become one of my favorites. The contrast of crispy, flaky pastry with the juicy, flavorful pork filling—it’s absolutely irresistible. The first time you see the golden layers puff up in the oven, you’ll feel proud, too.
Don‘t Be Intimidated – They‘re Easier Than They Look!
I know it might look complicated, but trust me—once you’ve tried making them, you’ll realize they’re just detailed, not difficult. Take your time, enjoy the process, and you’ll end up with something truly special.
The key lies in a few simple techniques—master these, and you’ll have flaky, juicy mooncakes every time.
Key Techniques for Perfect Suzhou Mooncakes
Making Suzhou mooncakes is all about mastering the textures—crisp on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside. These are the little secrets that make all the difference:
1. Flaky, Layered Pastry:
Soft and stretchable oil dough: Cut lard into small pieces, mix with sugar, then pour in boiling water and stir until melted. Add to flour and mix into a shaggy dough. The heat softens the starch, making the dough smooth, elastic, and easy to roll without cracking.
Silky oil paste: The oil paste (or “油酥”) needs to be kneaded thoroughly until completely smooth. If it’s not fully blended, it may ooze oil or tear the layers during shaping.
Even rolling technique: Be gentle and consistent when rolling. Uneven pressure can cause the dough to tear or puff up irregularly during baking, leading to cracks or lopsided mooncakes.
2. Juicy, Flavorful Filling:
Use the right pork cut: A blend of 30% fat and 70% lean pork—like pork shoulder or pork collar—gives you a juicy filling that stays moist after baking. Too lean, and it’ll be dry. Too fatty, and it’ll leak.
Freeze before wrapping: After mixing and shaping the meatballs, freeze them for at least 30 minutes. This helps them hold their shape while wrapping, and seals in the juices so they don’t seep out during baking.
3. Handling the Dough:
Dust with care: Always keep a light touch of dry flour on your work surface and rolling pin. This prevents sticking and keeps the dough from tearing.
Seal tightly: When wrapping the filling, press the seam firmly closed. Any gaps may allow oil to leak during baking, collapsing the flaky layers and ruining the shape.
4. Baking Smart:
Know your oven: Ovens vary, so treat the first bake like a test run. After 10 minutes, peek inside to see how things are progressing—especially the color.
Flip gently: When turning the mooncakes halfway through, use a soft spatula and a delicate touch to avoid squeezing the filling out or denting the crust.
Watch for golden perfection: The last 5 minutes of baking are key. This is when the surface turns that beautiful golden hue. Keep a close eye to avoid overbaking or burning.
Ingredients
Savory Pork Filling
- 300g pork shoulder or front leg meat (30% fat, 70% lean)
- 3g salt
- 10g sugar
- 15ml light soy sauce
- 5ml dark soy sauce
- 15ml Shaoxing wine (or cooking wine)
- 20ml sesame oil (or lard)
- 40g pickled mustard stem (zha cai), chopped (optional)
- 15g chopped scallions
- a pinch white pepper powder (optional)
Oil Dough (Water Dough)
- 200g all-purpose flour
- 55g lard (solid)
- 20g sugar
- 100ml boiling water
Shortening Dough (Oil Paste)
- 120g cake flour (low-gluten)
- 60g lard (solid)
Other
- a small amount of dry flour (for dusting)
- mooncake stamp or edible food coloring (optional, for decoration)
Instructions
1. Prepare the Pork Filling
Chop or blend the meat:
Cut pork into small pieces and process into a fine paste (or chop by hand until sticky).
Season and mix:
Add salt, sugar, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, and white pepper. Stir in one direction until sticky. Add chopped zha cai, scallions, and sesame oil. Mix well.
Shape and chill:
Divide into 25g balls, roll into spheres, and freeze for 30 minutes to firm up.
2. Make the Oil Dough
Mix ingredients:
Put lard and sugar in a bowl. Pour in boiling water and stir until melted. Pour this mixture into the flour and mix with a spatula until shaggy.
Knead and chill:
When cool, knead by hand into a smooth dough (about 5 minutes). Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
3. Make the Shortening Dough
Form the dough:
Sift cake flour, add lard, and rub together with your hands until a smooth paste forms.
Chill:
Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes alongside the oil dough.
4. Laminate and Shape
Encase and roll:
Flatten oil dough to 0.5cm thick. Place shortening dough in the center, seal well. Dust both sides lightly with flour. Roll into a 25×15cm rectangle. Roll up from one end into a log. Cut into 16 pieces (~30g each).
Flatten and fill:
Take one dough piece and pinch both ends together to seal tightly. Shape it into a neat ball, then cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
Press one piece into a disc, roll to dumpling-skin size. Wrap one frozen meatball inside, seal well. Gently flatten into a round cake about 1.5cm thick.
Decorate:
Stamp the top with a mooncake mold and place seam-side down on parchment paper.
5. Bake Until Golden and Crispy
Preheat oven:
Preheat oven to 180°C (356°F) with both top and bottom heat. Place tray on the middle rack.
Bake:
Bake for 10 minutes until lightly golden. Flip and bake another 15–20 minutes until crisp and golden on both sides.
Cool:
Cool on a rack for 5 minutes. Enjoy warm for a crisp crust, or cool for a firmer filling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make the filling in advance?
Yes! You can prepare and freeze the pork filling balls days ahead.
What if I don‘t have Shaoxing wine?
You can substitute with regular Chinese cooking wine.
Can I use vegetable shortening instead of lard?
Lard gives the most authentic texture, but shortening will also work in a pinch.
Do I need a mooncake stamp?
Not at all! The stamp is purely decorative. You can skip it if you don’t have one.
Can I bake these in an air fryer?
Yes, at 160–170°C for a slightly shorter time, but watch closely to avoid overbrowning.
Homemade Suzhou-Style Savory Mooncakes
Ingredients
Savory Pork Filling
- 300 g pork shoulder or front leg meat 30% fat, 70% lean
- 3 g salt
- 10 g sugar
- 15 ml light soy sauce
- 5 ml dark soy sauce
- 15 ml Shaoxing wine or cooking wine
- 20 ml sesame oil or lard
- 40 g pickled mustard stem zha cai, chopped (optional)
- 15 g chopped scallions
- a pinch white pepper powder optional
Oil Dough (Water Dough)
- 200 g all-purpose flour
- 55 g lard solid
- 20 g sugar
- 100 ml boiling water
Shortening Dough (Oil Paste)
- 120 g cake flour low-gluten
- 60 g lard solid
Other
- a small amount of dry flour for dusting
- mooncake stamp or edible food coloring optional, for decoration
Instructions
Prepare the Pork Filling
- Chop or blend the meat:
- Cut pork into small pieces and process into a fine paste (or chop by hand until sticky).
- Season and mix:
- Add salt, sugar, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, and white pepper. Stir in one direction until sticky. Add chopped zha cai, scallions, and sesame oil. Mix well.
- Shape and chill:
- Divide into 25g balls, roll into spheres, and freeze for 30 minutes to firm up.
Make the Oil Dough
- Mix ingredients:
- Put lard and sugar in a bowl. Pour in boiling water and stir until melted. Pour this mixture into the flour and mix with a spatula until shaggy.
- Knead and chill:
- When cool, knead by hand into a smooth dough (about 5 minutes). Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Make the Shortening Dough
- Form the dough:
- Sift cake flour, add lard, and rub together with your hands until a smooth paste forms.
- Chill:
- Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes alongside the oil dough.
Laminate and Shape
- Encase and roll:
- Flatten oil dough to 0.5cm thick. Place shortening dough in the center, seal well. Dust both sides lightly with flour. Roll into a 25×15cm rectangle. Roll up from one end into a log. Cut into 16 pieces (~30g each).
- Flatten and fill:
- Take one dough piece and pinch both ends together to seal tightly. Shape it into a neat ball, then cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
- Press one piece into a disc, roll to dumpling-skin size. Wrap one frozen meatball inside, seal well. Gently flatten into a round cake about 1.5cm thick.
- Decorate:
- Stamp the top with a mooncake mold and place seam-side down on parchment paper.
Bake Until Golden and Crispy
- Preheat oven:
- Preheat oven to 180°C (356°F) with both top and bottom heat. Place tray on the middle rack.
- Bake:
- Bake for 10 minutes until lightly golden. Flip and bake another 15–20 minutes until crisp and golden on both sides.
- Cool:
- Cool on a rack for 5 minutes. Enjoy warm for a crisp crust, or cool for a firmer filling.
Nutrition
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